OK @Leo, to make up for that I should say that afterwards we entered the picturesque town of Santarem which felt like something out of a spaghetti western - in fact it was so quiet, it felt like the scene after the good guy and the bad guy have seen each other and everyone has scarpered to the safety of their houses - anyway, picturesque and almost totally dead but we found this one woman who had opened a kinda modern feeling oyster bar which was very unusual in the town (in fact in my experience of Portugal, oysters are the one thing that are more expensive here than in London) and we sat on these beautiful wooden tables outside in a square feasting on oysters and drinking cold white wine as her cute little twin daughters sat next to us and played for hours with like weird sloppy play-doh stuff. Just a beautiful afternoon.
And also I should say that I ate the rabbit's brain.
Sorry I couldn't resist.
It was a lovely day though - we went to this vineyard near Santarem. These places have spectacular gates leading to a beautiful white hacienda with outbuildings and stables. If this was a film about Mexican cartels or mafia or something then the gates would have had two knackos lounging against them with guns over their shoulders, outside the house there would be a huge table set up with the sinister old patriach in his dusty suit surrounded by hangers on and as you ate his impossibly beautiful daughter would ride up clutching an Arabian pony between her taut thighs, she would smile at you flashing white teeth in her olive face but you daren't meet her glance as you heard rumours of what happened to her previous suitors...
But in actuality there just a load of flash cars cos there was some kind of wealthy wedding party, and a shop selling their wine. We bought a couple of bottles but no tasting cos of covid so it was a bit random.
Had a decent sized lunch of fish and chips so dinner wasn't big or complicated. Homemade bread hot from the oven, homemade chutney (can't take credit for that, my mum made it), some cheddar so mature it had a pension plan by the age of 25, a couple of blue cheeses, some red grapes and a good dry cider. Really hit the spot.