craner

Beast of Burden
The thing I liked about it was seeing the waves from the perspective of people who have lived in the town before the waves were world famous.
 

IdleRich

IdleRich
There are a load of women you see in that town wearing traditional dress that looks like peasant garb from another century.
 

mind_philip

saw the light
There's a documentary series about Garret McNamara and Nazare on HBO over here at the moment. Another terrifying individual. He reminds me of the climber Alex Honnold. They don't exude confidence, they exude certainty. Which is pretty fucking strange considering what they're doing and the consequences of being wrong.
 

craner

Beast of Burden
He's a legitimate psycho:

SNELL: You know, there are several moments in the series where we watch your whole body disappear inside the barrel of a wave and then come out in the spray. You know, I've been wondering since I started watching this what it looks like when you're on the inside. Are you able to kind of take in the moment, or does it pass too quickly?

MCNAMARA: Oh, it's so beautiful. It's like time stands still. You can feel your heart beating. You can almost hear it at times. And it's like you're in your own little world, and you just - it's like eternity, but then it's so quick. And you're looking out of the hole trying to make it back out into the world. And at times, you get so deep, and there's a curve in the barrel, and you can't see out. And, you know, I think all of us surfers, our happy place, the place we like more than anywhere on the wave is in the barrel. And so I named my son - he's 6 now. His name is Barrel.

 
Top