padraig (u.s.)
a monkey that will go ape
So in 1998 my uncle spent two weeks in a village called La Soledad (Chiapas) as a neutral observer attached to the Fray Bartolome Centre for Human Rights based in San Cristobal de las Casas.
He says:
La Soledad is a divided village of betweeen 70-90 households: and the divisions are extremely complex - never following a straight line. Members of the same families are in different groups (PRIistas; Independentes; PT's -the Workers Party allied to the PRI; and of course Zapatistas; all in roughly equal numbers); the houses are clustered and scattered rather than segregated; some "public" areas are "neutral" and some "belong" to particular groups; some activities are shared, like church and some fiestas; others are particular, like schooling and other fiestas; people shop in their "own" stores for preference, but will purchase from whoever has the goods they need. Information given in good faith is not always consistent. In spite of all these cross-linkages, we sensed that people had stereotyped views of people in other groups.
Our role as observers was almost as complex, not least because we could never hope to comprehend the dynamics of the whole village. We were neutral, but present at the invitation of only one party (Zapatista); and concerned for the human rights of everyone.
that's more or less how it was at the divided village I went to - we didn't wind up actually doing any work (at least well I was there - they may have gone back at some point after I left). it was kind of an iffy situation - we'd been invited by the Zapatistas obv so the PRIistas were suspicious but willing to at least come to the meeting with us & the Zs since we were talking about installing a water system for the whole village, not just the Zapatista parts (which would have been impractical anyway since, as with your uncle's experience the different factions were pretty well mingled). our role wasn't quite as complex - we were clearly & openly pro-EZLN - tho I should say that had/have a lot more sympathy for campesinos who get duped/coerced/bribed into supporting the PRI than I do for the PRI itself.
also there are many villages which are 100% EZLN or 100% PRI. besides being forced to leave some people have left of their own accord. there's also a ring of new slums - log cabins/no water/no electric - around the outskirts of San Cristobal where desplazados live, presumably from both sides tho I have no idea.
one thing about human rights - the EZLN track record again may not be perfect but I can say with confidence that it's much, much cleaner than the govt's.